The most common algae associated with swimming pools is green algae. It is very opportunistic, meaning it will take advantage of any failure in the normal sanitizing program and quickly infest a pool. One will see green algae problems frequently appear overnight following heavy rainstorms. This is because rainstorms actually provide food for the algae in the form of nitrogen. The nitrogen not only feeds the algae but also destroys chlorine residuals.
Green algae must not be mistaken for metal present in the pool water. Metals, especially copper, can give the water a clear green tint. The best way to treat green algae is to prevent it in the first place. Use an algaecide regularly as part of a normal maintenance program. This will prevent algae from growing, even if a failure in the sanitizing system was to occur. It is always easier and more effective to prevent the algae problem than to try and eliminate it once it occurs. When it does occur, treat it promptly. The longer you wait before treatment, the more difficult and costly the result. Select an algaecide that will both kill the existing algae and prevent renewed growth. Follow the label directions and maintain circulation during treatment.
Scrub (again) and vacuum. Take a second pass with your pool brush to remove any remaining green algae. Follow up by vacuuming your pool. This will remove any dead algae that has collected at the bottom of the pool.
Yellow or mustard algae is very similar in form to green algae, but is much slower growing and is deficient in chlorophyll (green pigment) which accounts for its yellow color. It is easily identified by the ability to brush it easily off the pool walls and floor. Because yellow algae grow very slowly, it is also very difficult to destroy. By the time you see it growing in your pool, it has likely been there as long as several weeks. Additionally, since yellow algae is low in chlorophyll which is light-loving, the algae live and even grow in dark areas of the pool such as plumbing and filters. This only compounds the difficulty of control.
To treat mustard algae, care in selection of a proper algaecide is most important. Be certain to select a product made for the control of this unique form of algae. Copper-based algaecides seem particularly well suited for controlling yellow algae. One word of caution: it is not unusual to need to treat yellow algae more than once to bring it fully under control. This again points out the value of preventing the growth in the first place.
Clean everything that has come into contact with your pool water. Wash swimsuits and towels (use bleach!), and make sure to clean and disinfect pool toys and equipment. Remember, yellow algae spores can survive on almost any surface, so this step is critical!
Scrub and vacuum your pool. Use a good pool brush to scrape yellow algae off of your pool walls. Once you’ve removed all of the algae, vacuum your pool thoroughly.
Test and the water. If anything is out of balance – say, the pH is too high or the alkalinity is too low – add chemicals to bring things into line.
Shock your pool. You'll need to use around three times more shock treatment than you'd use for green algae. Run your pool filter for at least 24 hours to ensure that the shock treatment can circulate.
Repeat steps 3, 4, and 5 as needed. Test, brush, and shock your pool as needed, until your pool is 100% algae-free and your water chemistry is balanced.
Frequently considered the most difficult algae to control is the one we commonly refer to as "black algae". However, it is also likely the easiest to prevent. Black algae typically gains a foothold in areas of the pool that suffer from poor circulation. Areas such as corners, or in certain areas of the deep end, are often identified as places where black algae continues to show up in a particular pool and are then nearly impossible to eliminate. Most often, these areas suffer from inadequate circulation and thus little or no fresh water, sanitizer or algaecide gets to the area with any regularity.
One of the best ways to prevent black algae growth or eliminate it once it surfaces is to correct the circulation problem(s) first. Once it begins forming, black algae develops specialized cells that lock it deep in the pores of pool surfaces. In order to effectively control it, all of its cells, including those deep in the surface, must be killed. It is all but impossible for chlorine alone to get this deep into the pores of the pool.
In addition to the attaching or locking mechanism of black algae, the growing colony also produces a defense mechanism. Outer layers of the colony produce a waxy coat that prevents chlorine or algaecides from penetrating into the colony and killing it. Therefore, the algaecide used should contain a "penetrating" agent. This agent will actually work to help the algaecide penetrate into the pores of the pool surface and cut through the waxy coat with a special wetting action that chlorine does not have.
Break a chlorine tablet in half and rub it directly onto the affected areas. The chlorine treatment will kill the algae’s roots and prevent it from coming back.
Shock your pool. Because black algae is tougher than other types of algae, you might need to use a stronger dose of pool shock. Check the directions on the package or talk to your local pool supply retailer.
Like black algae, this reddish-pink growth isn’t a true algae. It’s actually a type of bacteria – in this case, a slimy bacteria that thrives around PVC pipes and in shady spots on your pool’s surface. Like all other types of algae, pink slime is totally harmless. Unlike black algae, pink algae lacks a protective shell, so it isn’t especially tough to remove.
As cold weather approaches, it’s time to start thinking about winterizing your swimming pool. Winterizing – or shutting down your pool for the season – helps safeguard your pool from costly damage related to freezing water. It’s also a great way to keep your pool clean and ensure that it’s ready to go when the next swimming season rolls around.
Have questions about how to close a pool? New to the whole winterizing thing? Here are a few steps to follow that will make your pool as safe as possible for the winter.
Before you shut down your pool for the season, you’ll want to make sure that your water is balanced. By ensuring that your pool water chemistry is where it needs to be, you can avoid labor-intensive maintenance headaches when it’s time to open your pool up again.
Pool Builders Gold CoastParts per million – often abbreviated as PPM – is a unit of measurement that tells you how much of a particular substance – such as a chemical or mineral -- is present in water.
pH. This is a measure of the acidity of your pool water. pH level can affect everything from algae growth and corrosion to comfort and cleanliness. It can also affect the effectiveness of the other chemicals in your swimming pool. An ideal pH is 2 and 6 parts per million (PPM). If your pool’s pH is too high or too low, you can use a chemical increaser or decreaser as needed.
Total alkalinity. Alkalinity directly affects your pool’s pH. For example, if your swimming pool’s total alkalinity is too high, your pH will also be too high. If your alkalinity is too low – you guessed it -- your pH will also be too low. You’ll want your pool’s alkalinity to be around 100 PPM.
Calcium hardness. Calcium is always present in swimming pool water. However, when calcium levels are too high or too low, you could be looking at a range of issues such as corrosion and scaling. Aim for a calcium content of 100-400 PPM. Use a hardness increaser to raise calcium levels, and use a sequestering agent to lower your calcium (both products are available in any pool supply or hardware store).
Pro tip: Closing your pool for the season? Consider investing in winterizing chemicals to keep your pool water chemistry balanced and on track. You can visit a local pool professional retailer to learn more.
One critical component of pool closing: chlorine level. Chlorine prevents algae, breaks down bacteria, and keeps your pool clean and fresh. Before you shut things down for the season, it’s a good idea to hit your pool with an extra-powerful punch of chlorine in the form of a shock treatment. Shocking your pool is easy: Use a shock treatment to bring your 10 to 12 PPM. Then, wait a day or two for the chlorine to come down to its normal level, about 5 to 5 PPM.
Remove all skimmer baskets, heaters, slide, wall fittings, vacuums, pool cleaners, ladders and handrails. Clean all items, allow them to dry thoroughly, and store them in a safe, dry place. Once the equipment is out of the way, remove all debris from the pool using a net, a soft broom, or even a leaf rake.
Each type of swimming pool has unique requirements for winterizing. An above ground pool might have slightly different winterizing needs than an inground pool. Each type of pool filter has a unique shutdown process. Check with your pool professional to learn how to properly winterize your pool, minimize damage, and ensure safety.
You can either use your filter pump or a submersible pump to lower your pool water level. You'll need to lower the level about 4 to 6 inches below the lowest plumbing line, normally the water return line. Be sure the water level is at least below the skimmer. You can remove the above ground pool skimmer.
Your pump, filter, heater, and chlorinator all have a drain plug. Either drain the water out of these or blow the lines out with a shop vac. From there, it's time to clean your pool filter: Sand filters and Diatomaceous Earth (DE) filters will need to be backwashed, then disconnected and stored in a safe, dry place. Cartridge filters must be thoroughly cleaned and allowed to dry completely (this is also a good time to inspect your cartridge filter for any damage).
If the filter is small enough, you might be able to take it apart and store it for the winter. Keep the plugs out of these units. If you plug them back up and water happens to get into them, they might freeze over and crack your equipment.
Pro tip: Place all the plugs in the skimmer basket during your pool winterization maintenance. That way, you'll know where they are when you need them next spring.
If you have a chemical feeder, drain and empty it. Leaving chemicals in your chemical feeder during swimming pool winterization can damage your equipment. Remember to put the top back on the chemical feeder and be sure to wear safety goggles and gloves.
Use a solid swimming pool cover that keeps out all debris, blocks the sun, and inhibits algae growth. And don’t forget the air pillow! Air pillows to fit under your winter pool cover, and they help relieve pressure -- and protect your pool’s walls -- as your pool water freezes. Air pillows can also keep leaves, debris, and water from collecting in the center of your pool cover.
It’s a warm day, and all you can think about the crystal blue water of your swimming pool. But just as you’re about to dive in, you notice something: Cloudy pool water.
Not only is cloudy pool water unattractive, but swimming pools with cloudy water can even pose health risks. That’s because cloudy pool water can contain harmful bacteria such as E. coli and Legionella. What’s more, pool water that’s cloudy can even damage your pool and its circulation system.
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